Day 4...Monday...January 11, 2016
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Months ago, we made reservations to have an English speaking tour guide, Richard, give us a walking tour of Buenos Aires. We met Richard bright and early this morning. He asked if, in addition to our historical tour, there was anything special we wanted him to include. We told him we wanted to see the city thru his eyes and go to places he and the locals enjoy. He was thrilled to accommodate us with our request and we were in for an exceptional tour of his beloved city.
First off, a taxi ride to the famous area of La Boca. Along the way, Richard found out that Jeff's first love is bridges. Richard told the taxi driver to stop and we got out and saw the famous 1914 iron transporter bridge that carried trains and cargo across the Riochuela, which means canal, until the mid-20th century.
Buenos Aires was founded near La Boca for the first time in 1536. The people who lived here were called "Portenos", or "people of the port". Today this portion of the once thriving port is a far cry from its past fame; but is still a crucial part of the city given its maritime and commercial importance.
Much of the colorful flavor of La Boca is because the shipyard workers would take home some leftover ship paint and use it for painting their home. With each narrow residential building painted one color of paint than the next, this area has retained a technicolor glow.
Much of the colorful flavor of La Boca is because the shipyard workers would take home some leftover ship paint and use it for painting their home. With each narrow residential building painted one color of paint than the next, this area has retained a technicolor glow.
Before Richard, an ex-pat from NYC, and his Argentinean wife had their two daughters, they had lived for years in La Boca. Richard is well-known by many of the shop keepers. His local knowledge was wonderful for he had an instinctive way of taking us around to see the sights so that we were the first ones of the day viewing the famous spots.
From La Boca we took a bus to the San Telmo area and walked down Defensa Street, which was like seeing a whole new area. Yesterday, we had experienced walking thru the gauntlet of vendors all of whom had been clogging the streets and sidewalks of Defensa Street's renowned Sunday antique's fair. We were amazed today to find that Defensa Street is quite large and is filled with beautiful store fronts brimming with stunning artwork and attractive window displays featuring beautiful, and quite expensive antiques.
On we walked over to the cobblestone street of Pasaje San Lorenzo with the beautiful large old "casonas" or mansions, each with their own ornate wrought iron balcony. This one has a Starbucks in it.
On we walked over to the cobblestone street of Pasaje San Lorenzo with the beautiful large old "casonas" or mansions, each with their own ornate wrought iron balcony. This one has a Starbucks in it.
Time for an espresso! So Richard took us to his favorite coffee spot, the Bar El Federal
We learned that in 1864 a grocer set up shop here. Inside this small cafe is a stunning original carved-wood bar and antique cash registers. It's readily apparent that this is the locals' morning hangout for a coffee, newspaper and picadas!
We learned that in 1864 a grocer set up shop here. Inside this small cafe is a stunning original carved-wood bar and antique cash registers. It's readily apparent that this is the locals' morning hangout for a coffee, newspaper and picadas!
In Istrado Miranda we were given a unique taste of San Tempos's artistic side. Quite contemporary art galleries abound. Richard introduced us to a number of the local artisans, one of whom was the famous master silversmiths, Juan Carlos Pallarols Orfebre who had created the city's famous Cathedral Metropolitana's exquisite silver altar. We enjoyed learning about his passion for creating beauty from metal. He was a very sweet man.
We walked down the street and Richard introduced us to his longtime, older friend whose shoe business has been in the family in the same location for 8 generations!
After chatting with the shoemaker for quite a while, he proudly displayed his extensive and valuable tango record collection to us which amazed Richard for he had never seen it before, let alone even knew that there was one! The famous Carlos Gardel, whose autographed photo is proudly displayed on the wall and who is considered by Argentineans as the greatest tango star ever created, was a close family friend. Many of these records had once belonged to Carlos Gardels and are treasured keepsakes.
We walked down the street and Richard introduced us to his longtime, older friend whose shoe business has been in the family in the same location for 8 generations!
After chatting with the shoemaker for quite a while, he proudly displayed his extensive and valuable tango record collection to us which amazed Richard for he had never seen it before, let alone even knew that there was one! The famous Carlos Gardel, whose autographed photo is proudly displayed on the wall and who is considered by Argentineans as the greatest tango star ever created, was a close family friend. Many of these records had once belonged to Carlos Gardels and are treasured keepsakes.
We did a bit of tango and then it was time to say goodbye to our dear new friend.
We went across the street and met another of Richard's friends. He's a wine connoisseur who owns one of the most inviting wine stores we've ever been in. His expertise was superb and we were offered a private wine tasting later that night.
It turns out that in addition to being a tour guide, Richard is a film director. We were ready interested in what his projects are and he asked us if we'd like to see where he works. He took us to his loft where he is working on a documentary about the first gay pride parade in the Bronx. We met the other artists who work in the lofts in his building. They are incredibly talented artisans and we enjoyed getting to know them and view their creations. We were honored to have Richard share his passion with us.
After visiting numerous historical sites and gleaning fascinating information, we walked to one of Richard's favorite cafe/restaurants, the legendary Tortoni. We knew from having read the guide books that "Buenos Aires is renowned for its cafe culture and many of the city's classic cafes resonant with a patina of age and events both momentous and small- date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The government has protected 53 of them- including the legendary Tortoni- from development's onward march."
After visiting numerous historical sites and gleaning fascinating information, we walked to one of Richard's favorite cafe/restaurants, the legendary Tortoni. We knew from having read the guide books that "Buenos Aires is renowned for its cafe culture and many of the city's classic cafes resonant with a patina of age and events both momentous and small- date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The government has protected 53 of them- including the legendary Tortoni- from development's onward march."
Cafe Tortoni is a popular destination for lunch. We were met with a very long waiting line which looked like it wrapped around the block.
As we got in line, Richard went up to the front and spoke to the maitre d' who gave a knowing nod. Richard joined us in line and said we wouldn't have to wait long, and we didn't. We went right in and we were seated at a wonderful table.
Cafe Tortoni is the oldest and most famous cafe in Buenos Aires.The interior of Tortoni is exquisite and is reminiscent of a bygone era. It is one of Richard's favorite spots for lunch. His regular waiter took very good care of our luncheon orders.
If you were to look up at the ceiling, you would see stunning stain glass in the art nouveau style.
Tortoni continues to welcome dignitaries, locals and tourists, not to mention once serving the world's smallest man!
As we got in line, Richard went up to the front and spoke to the maitre d' who gave a knowing nod. Richard joined us in line and said we wouldn't have to wait long, and we didn't. We went right in and we were seated at a wonderful table.
Cafe Tortoni is the oldest and most famous cafe in Buenos Aires.The interior of Tortoni is exquisite and is reminiscent of a bygone era. It is one of Richard's favorite spots for lunch. His regular waiter took very good care of our luncheon orders.
If you were to look up at the ceiling, you would see stunning stain glass in the art nouveau style.
Tortoni continues to welcome dignitaries, locals and tourists, not to mention once serving the world's smallest man!
Over the years Tortoni has welcomed Argentina's most cherished tango giants like Carlos Gardel and artists of every persuasion. In the far back of Tortoni's main floor there is a small theatre which features nightly tango performances. At the end of which, everyone gets to dance the tango! For this, and for its intrinsic historical beauty, Tortoni is beloved by all who enter.
We said our fond farewells to Richard. He made us promise to stay in touch and to come back and see him again soon.
Before he left, Richard introduced us to our afternoon private guide, Don. It was wonderful to see the city thru his eyes as well. We were treated to a wonderful afternoon tour.
We continued through the Plaza Dorrego which is the heart of San Telmo. Don was a wealth of both historical knowledge and current affairs. He led us through shops which have restored their interiors to their original beauty. We went through beautiful interiors such as this one located in one of Don's favorite stores.
Before he left, Richard introduced us to our afternoon private guide, Don. It was wonderful to see the city thru his eyes as well. We were treated to a wonderful afternoon tour.
We continued through the Plaza Dorrego which is the heart of San Telmo. Don was a wealth of both historical knowledge and current affairs. He led us through shops which have restored their interiors to their original beauty. We went through beautiful interiors such as this one located in one of Don's favorite stores.
We went to the famous Plaza de Mayo, pronounced "ma-zoe", which is the heart of the historic Monserrat district, and truly the heart of the entire city. There we saw Cassa Rosada which is Argentina's unique "Pink House". This is the presidential palace where Evita Peron gave her famous discourse to her beloved supporters immortalized by the song "Don't Cry For Me Argentina" from the Broadway play and movie, "Evita".
Plaza de Mayo is where Buenos Aires had its "second founding" in 1580. "This square has been ground zero for virtually every momentous political event in Argentina's modern history, from presidential proclamations to mass protests by Peron's blue-collar workers (the descamisados or shirtless ones) to the mournful demonstrations of the "Mothers of the Disappeared," whose children were kidnapped and murdered by the military governments of the 1970's and ear 1980's. Today there are still sometimes frequent protests and occasional appearances by the aging Madrs (mothers)-whose "ownership" of the plaza is marked by the headscarves, their symbol, painted on the tiles around the 1811 obelisk in the center".
Here is a small portion of the massive tiled list of the names of children who were taken from their mothers, never to be seen again. Their names are here
so they will never be forgotten.
We spent time here to absorb the profound impact of what had occurred during our lifetime of which we had been so unaware. We thought of the "Mothers of the Disappeared" and their unimaginable, painful loss and said a silent prayer for them; and we thought of our own children and gave thanks for our many blessings.
As we learned more from Don about this challenging time in Argentina's history, we walked to the Subte, or subway, to take the C for Plaza San Martin.
We made it there in record time. We walked down Arroyo Street past the embassies and high, high-end luxury stores.
On the small Calle Cerrito is the opulent 1916 French style mansion above appropriately named "La Mansion". It was purchased by the 4 Seasons Hotel. Madonna rehearsed her Evita balcony scenes here before being filmed at the Pink Palace.
The embassies all are former mansions. It goes without saying they are massive. Many are nearly a city block long. Virtually all were built with a heavy French architectural influence including the Vatican's embassy.
Interesting enough, just around the corner from these embassies is the back door entrance to the exclusive "men only" Jockey Club or, as the door plaque states, "Stud Book Argentino" only.
We stopped for ice cream at Don's favorite ice cream shop in all of Buenos Aires, "Volta". We had to admit it was some of the best ice cream we've ever had.
We walked thru Recelta enjoying the glorious weather. The park is lovely and is reminiscent of Paris.
In the park is a century old "ombudsmen". It looks like a tree with its heavy branches and large protruding root structure; but it is really a bush! Supports, both wooden yokes and "metal men", help hold the heavy branches and preserve its integrity.
We stopped at numerous other historical sites and churches as we made our way to our final destination, the Cemeteries de Ricolete.
It is a tranquil, peaceful place. Don had our afternoon planned so perfectly that we arrived at Cemeteries de Recoleta near the end of the day and few if any other people were in there! We couldn't believe our good fortune. We had been here 5 years ago and the place was so packed that we couldn't see Evita's mausoleum. Today it was as though we had the entire area to ourselves. It was quite remarkable.
